Location: Southeast corner of Utah; N 37 12.1583’, W 112 59.2725’
Again, because of the cold weather, we decided to stay in a commercial campground in Springdale, Utah. Springdale is just outside the south entrance to Zion National Park. It turned out that our campsite in the commercial park was only a couple hundred yards from the campsite that we later took inside the park. From Bryce, you enter Zion at the east entrance. There is a lovely scenic drive, through two major tunnels with vehicle size restrictions. Even our little pop-up warranted a measurement at the park entrance to ensure that we wouldn’t need an escort, due to its width. Hurrying through this part of the park, stopping only at the Checkerboard Mesa viewpoint, our goal was to get a campsite and be well situated before too late in the day. We will definitely revisit the east entrance scenic drive and the beautiful rock formations along the way. We also stopped at the Visitor Center to get our normal data dump on what to do in the park.

Checkerboard Mesa along the east road
The first full day, we decided to go to St. George, UT for a maintenance day because it was still pretty cold. In fact, we passed through some snow flurries on the way there. “It never snows in St. George,” they said.
Then the weather got colder. So, we decided to do “indoor” activities. This turned out to be pretty satisfying. We traveled the scenic road all the way to the end of Zion Canyon and even braved stopping at a couple of the viewpoints. We went to the Zion Human History Museum, watched the movies (good), sat in on a ranger program, and had lunch at the lodge. A good day.

Panorama of Temples and Towers outside Zion Human History Museum
Looking Up Canyon from Human History Museum
After moving to the park’s Watchman Campground (named for the huge cliff face just above it), which is just around the corner from the visitor center, we headed back “up canyon” on the scenic road. We hiked Riverside Walk, Weeping Rock Trail, and Emerald Pool Loop trail. All very neat, and two of the three uphill – Weeping Rock and Emerald Pool Loop. Weeping Rock has several locations where “hanging gardens” are clinging to the vertical walls of rock, while ancient water seeps out to keep them moist. We also caught the ranger evening program about flash floods. Those things are really mean. You don’t want to be in the river bed, slot canyon or wash when there is a chance of rain. Even if you’re a great swimmer (or runner), the wall of water filled with boulders and trees rushing down will do a number on you before you know it. We had heard about these at other parks, but the films they had here were quite dramatic.

Weeping Rock
We also took a few side trips from Zion’s main valley. Outside the park we drove the Smithsonian Butte Scenic Backway. Yes, backway, and given our experiences with back roads, you might think that we’d understand what was in store. But it said “Smithsonian”. How bad could it be? Well, it turned out to be not too bad, but definitely a backway that we wouldn’t recommend for a passenger car. This adventure was on our way to Pipe Spring National Monument, where we toured the fort (also called Winsor Castle) and grounds, visited the museum, and hiked the Ridge Trail. We headed back to Zion, completing a counter-clockwise loop by going through Kanab, UT. This loop brought us back to the east entrance and allowed us to stop at most of the scenic overlooks and viewpoints that we “zoomed” past on our way into the park a few days earlier. Back down in the canyon, we drove up canyon again, stopping at Court of the Patriarchs and the Grotto. It turns out that the grotto is no longer there, which we learned after we spent some time looking for it. We think we found where it used to be.

Along Smithsonian Butte Backway
Winsor Castle at Pipe Spring National Monument
.JPG)
Court of the Patriarchs
(from l to r, Abraham, Isaac & Jacob)
Our greatest adventure at this park was Angels Landing. We hiked up Angels Landing Trail, which was very steep and strenuous. Then it got difficult. BYK made it through the first section of the very difficult part where we were clinging to chains, crossing a nearly smooth slickrock face way above the canyon floor. When the trail flattened out at Scout Point (aka“chicken-out point”), JEK assessed with binoculars the rest of the “trail” over the saddle and up to the landing. It is very narrow in some places and very steep (nearly vertical) most of the way. JEK forged ahead while BYK patiently waited, encouraging others to “go for it”. At one point, the saddle trail (with no guard rails) is about 4 feet wide, with steep drops off both sides of about 1500 feet or so. This is definitely not a hike for those with at least a normal fear of heights or those averse to extreme exertion. But the view from the top is amazing. (BYK will tell you the view from “chicken out point” is equally glorious.)
Looking down on Angels Landing Trail

BYK on Wally's Wiggles
(23 switchbacks in a short distance)

Thank Goodness for Chains
(notice tiny people on trail in upper left corner)

Looking Down Canyon from "Chicken-out Point"
Saddle to Angels Landing

Looking Up Canyon from Angels Landing
A section of the park that we learned about at the VC that is not heavily visited is the Kolob Canyon District. They told us it was really nice. So, after verifying that roads in that area were clear of snow, we headed in that direction. The district is in the northwest corner of the park. While there, we hiked the Taylor Creek Trail and the Taylor Creek Overlook. This was very interesting to see where some early Europeans settled, and we got to hike through some snow and see, up close, a buck mule deer in his natural habitat.

JEK on Taylor Creek Trail in Kolob Canyon
(much more snow was just ahead of us)
Another “side trip” that we made, after verifying road conditions, was the Kolob Terrace Road. This road goes up through the center of the park and is even less visited than the Kolob Canyon District. It ends in a dirt road that took us out to Lava Point Overlook. From there, one can look down on the tops and sides of some of the huge features that we saw from the canyon floor. That afternoon, back in Zion Canyon, we hiked the Hidden Canyon Trail. Another uphill trail that had beautiful vistas of Zion Canyon.
View along Kolob Terrace Road
BYK on Hidden Canyon Trail
By now, we’re thinking of getting ready for Thanksgiving and Christmas. With mixed emotions, it’s time to start heading home. But, there are a couple of more adventures before we leave the four corners area.