Business is finished at home, and we headed back out on the road again on May 26. Since Big Bend National Park is over twelve hundred miles from home we decide to take several days getting there. Our first day we travelled as far as Fontainebleau State Park in Mandeville, LA, across Lake Pontchartrain from New Orleans. It is a beautiful park with a beach on the lake, hiking trails complete with alligators, and great amenities including WiFi. We really like being connected. Over the years we have come to recognize Louisiana state parks are some of the best we have visited. No trip to Louisiana is complete without a side junket into New Orleans. During our trip to New Orleans we stopped by Café du Monde for beignets and café au lait, ate a scrumptious lunch at Muriel’s--imagine goat cheese crepes topped with fresh crawfish in a buttery Chardonnay, tomato sauce-- walked the French Quarter, and purchased the necessary box of pralines. Leaving New Orleans we went to Abita Springs and “toured” Abita Brewery. The tour lasted less than three minutes, but they had a serve-yourself tasting room, 12 beers on tap, before and after the “tour.” For all you beer lovers this is the place and not too shabby for all that walking.
Sunset over Lake Ponchartrain

Cafe du Monde, New Orleans, LA
Leaving Fontainebleau, we headed for Avery Island, LA to tour the Tabasco factory. As you pass onto the island there is a gatehouse where you must pay a small fee. The man in the gatehouse sticks a long pole with a clothespin on it out his window. Using the clothespin you clip your money on the pole and he then returns your island pass on that same pole. Very quaint! The tour was interesting, and at the end we got to taste ice cream made with peppers, yes peppers, at the company store. Johnny liked the Jalapeno ice cream while my favorite was the sweet and spicy. Who would ever think of making ice cream with Tabasco? From there we went to the Konriko Rice Mill and Store in New Iberia, LA. It is the oldest operating rice mill in the US and was put on the National Register of Historic Places by the government. We then stopped that night at Sam Houston Jones State Park in Lake Charles, LA.

Gatekeeper's House, Avery Isaland, LA
Tabasco Factory
Bottling Line, Tabasco Factory

Deer, Sam Houston Jones State Park
Our next stop was New Braunfels, TX, in the hill country, to canoe the Guadalupe River. We stayed at the KL Ranch Camp right on the river. It was so lovely to rise each morning and be able to see the water moving lazily by the campsite. While at New Braunfels we took an inflatable kayak ride down the river, twice unsuccessfully tried to find the bats exiting Bracken Cave -- over 20,000,000 Mexican freetail bats migrate to the cave each year-- ate dinner at Huisache Grill and Wine Bar, yum, yum, and bought pastries for breakfast at Naegelin’s Bakery, the oldest operating bakery in Texas. What a way to start the day.

Kayaking the Guadalupe River, so Peaceful
Our goal the next day was to get as close to Big Bend as possible and we made it to Marathon, TX where we stayed at the Marathon Motel and RV Park. Marathon is considered to be the gateway to Big Bend National Park. This RV park provided a wonderful view of the surrounding mountains and a breathtaking desert sunset.

Courtyard Marathon Motel, Toward Fireplace
We got up the next morning and drove to Big Bend. We checked out the Rio Grande Village; only one camper at that campground, looked at the full hook-up campsites; cement parking lot set-up, and decided to locate at the Chisos Basin Campground. It is down a windy, curvy road that has a 15% grade. After going down into the campground the issue became will we be able to get out? Shortly after setting up our campsite, the campsite across the road was visited by a pack of javelinas, about six in the group. From the safety of our trailer it was fun to watch them forage and then move on their merry way. We hiked part of the Window Trail and spotted a black bear below the trail as we were returning to the campsite. It was looking like we were going to be surrounded by wildlife in this park. The bear never noticed we were in his neighborhood, and we were very happy about that. We then went and walked the Window View Trail up by the lodge. It is a very short trail and takes you to the overlook directly behind the geological formation known as The Window. This provided a lovely view of the sunset and we were glad we took the time to do the walk. When we got back to our campsite deer were grazing in the same campsite where the javelinas had been earlier in the day. Life can’t get much better.

Big Bend , at Last

Javelinas Across the Road
The next day we drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Ross Maxwell was the first superintendent of the park and a geologist by training. He designed this road to include the park’s most significant geological features and historical sights. We saw the Sam Nail Ranch, Homer Wilson Ranch, Sotol Vista Overlook, Burro Mesa Pouroff, Mule Ears Viewpoint, Tuff Canyon, and followed the Rio Grande over to the Santa Elena Canyon Overlook. All of these sights were either breathtaking , interesting, enchanting or all of the above. We completed the loop by taking the unimproved Old Maverick Road (not recommended for your standard sedan) back to the highway. Once we hit the paved road, as we headed back to camp, an oncoming RV threw something under our truck resulting in a flat tire less than 3 minutes later. Nothing is more fun than changing a flat in the boiling sun in the middle of the desert. Wish I had the presence of mind to get a picture of poor Johnny sweating away getting us out of this predicament. Hindsight is still 20/20. For contrast by the time we got back to the campsite the heavens had opened, and we witnessed a rare summer thunderstorm, which brought a chill to the air and made life a lot more pleasant. Before it stopped raining there were two deer outside our camper. They may have been looking for shelter from the weather, but alas we didn’t have room.

Mule Ears, Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Santa Elena Canyon Cut, Distant Mountain
Now it was time for the great adventure of our trip to Big Bend, rafting the Rio Grande. We used Desert Sports in Terlingua, TX, and our guide Jeff was informative, knowledgable, and entertaining. We also can say we were fully protected on this trip. As the raft was being launched into the Rio Grande, two vans of Border Patrol pulled in at our launch sight, hopped out of their vans with their fully automatic weapons and began patrolling the river bank. Our guide and van driver were really incensed by this but that is a tale for another day. The trip normally takes two days, but because the water was so high and swift we were able to complete it in just one day. The scenery was unbelievable and once we got into the Santa Elena Canyon words are not sufficient to describe the magnificence and beauty. At times we were 1500 feet below the canyon rim with beautifully colored rock cliffs towering on either side. We made one stop at Fern Canyon. The raft was tied up and we walked around the rock outcropping out of sight of the river to see a fern glade, if you can believe in the desert. Gorgeous! We also stopped for a delightful shady lunch that came with a tablecloth covered table, dishes, fresh fruit, sandwiches, and dessert. The take out point for this trip was where we had been the day before after our Ross Maxwell drive. This trip is truly fantastic and highly recommended for anyone visiting Big Bend.

On the Rio Grande
Rapids at Santa Elana Canyon Entrance
Jeff, Our Guide, Exiting the Canyon
Being really tired from our rafting trip we decided to have dinner at the lodge that evening. It was a good meal, but the more interesting topic was the story of the mountain lion that had followed a deer out of the woods and onto the lodge parking lot. He wasn’t looking for a playmate. That was about 8:30 in the morning and two more spottings of a mountain lion in the afternoon a little farther up the hill were reported. This is very unusual behavior for these big cats as they tend to be more nocturnal and shy. It made sense why two game wardens were having dinner at the lodge that evening.Our last full day at Big Bend was spent hiking the Lost Mine Trail. This trail is the favorite of several park rangers so we decided to give it a try. There was a lot of beautiful scenery for just moderate effort. We had more deer by the campsite and then we went to an evening ranger talk on the geology of Big Bend. It was under an ocean millions of years ago and the mountains there were created by volcanic action as so many in this area were. Because of its remote location Big Bend is the largest, least visited park in the National Park System, but it is one of the more remarkable.
Juniper Canyon, Lost Mine Trail
JEK at Top of Lost Mine Trail

Sunset at "The Window"

Moon Over Casa Grande